The story of Fatehpur Sikri

Noon was warmly approaching over the head, and the air was picking up the temperature. The dense colony of Peepal trees slithered along with the wind sifting the dry heat of the topography. Standing on the recent concrete road that stood oddly out of the scene around the 16th-century construction, the time and space stood still as the guide began to narrate the story of Fatehpur Sikri.

Meena Bazaar and Akbar's Entrance

Meena Bazaar, a marketplace whose grandeur once bejewelled the platonic walls with its fine display of exquisite stones, precious gems, and priceless jewels imported from various kingdoms. The deserted air of Sikri that was once filled by the fairer sex's passionate commotion and Mughal shopping sprees is today lost under the dull rubble of sand and rocks. Laid out along the path of Emperor Akbar's private entrance, the bazaar's pantomime is now lost in ghost silence of the abandoned city. The guide broke the eerie quiet by beginning the story of the infamous town of Fatehpur Sikri.

At an approximate distance of 221 km from the current capital, Delhi, Fatehpur Sikri owned the title when Akbar moved his Mughal administration in 1571, only to be deserted 14 years later. The tour guide began ascending the modern tar slope that looked timely out of place through the Meena Bazaar towards the central premise of the fort. Looking around at the tumbled walls and foundations of the bazaar as we crossed it to the following location, it appeared as the perfect impression of nature taking over what is hers. The abandoned ruins sneaked their worn-out noses in-between the cracks of thickly grown moss, wild grass and heavy indigenous creepers.

It turns out, Fatehpur Sikri has its own fascinating story. Long before Akbar decided to establish his capital, a small village existed here known as Sikri. Years later, after the great victory of the Emperor at Gujarat, he coined the name Fatehpur to this village, giving it the name it is presently known by, Fatehpur Sikri. While listening to the guide's delightful narration about the origin, we reached the East entrance that opened into Tansen's performance arena. A broad rectangular courtyard cornered with eccentric carved cloisters and a window-like stage built at the centre for the performer to sit and present their art. This courtyard was crisply lawned with well-trimmed luscious grass and Shahbad pavements. The bright red from the cloisters, the greens from the garden, and the beige from stone pathways created such an atmosphere that it would convince anyone to sit there and enjoy an evening mehfil. I could relate to why the Emperor chose such a place! The guide explained how it also served as Diwan-i-aam or the house of commons on other days.

Diwan-i-Khas and the Game of Pachisi

Moving on from the Diwan-i-aam by stepping over a threshold, we entered the Emperor's abode. A flat quadrangular arena spread till the west side of the fort was outlined with high walls. In the enclosure, several complexes stand, built in the infamous red stone stood at an intermittent distance, proudly exhibiting their individual significance. In front of the entrance is the Diwan-i-Khas building on the right and extravagantly laid out on the floor was the game of Pacchisi. The guide approached the Diwan-i-Khas first. The two-floors complex appeared cubical from the outside, was octagonal on the inside. It was built for the Emperor to meet with his prime advisors, VIPs, and other important people. To think about all those private and confidential meetings that took place almost 500 years ago, inside these walls where we were standing today, had changed the course of history so many times. It seemed like the ancient air still carried some of those whispers around these pillars. Diwan-i-Khas opened in all four directions on the ground floor. Upon entering through one of the doorways, a compact room with heavily carved pillars falls in front of your view. Even the wall decorations were geometric and floral, archetypal to Mughal architecture. Without the appropriate oil lamps, everything appeared extra dark and more abandoned than ever. The guide began the story behind its construction and its unique techniques.

Built to conduct secret state affairs and meetings with the royal darbar, Diwan-i-Khas held great significance inside the fort. Its architecture was so intricate that voices could be monitored as per the Emperor's wish. The discussions happening on the first floor, maybe with his closest circle, could not be heard on the ground floor and stayed absolutely confidential. During the Kings' rule, the safety of a kingdom depended on preserving top-secret matters from getting out. Emperor Akbar made sure of it by planning this building in precisely that manner. Due to the weakening of the walls over the years, the first floor is closed to visitors.

Moving forward with the tour, we made our way to the majestic Pachisi game laid out on the floor with marble seats placed on all four sides for the opponents. The Emperor cleverly designed the game by laying a different coloured floor tile to mark the board's area among other floor tiles. Being one of the oldest board games in India, Pachisi has been traced across the country's history, where it is loved by Kings and his people. Then why would Emperor Akbar be any different? And his choice was evidently laid out, quite extravagantly, right here in the Fatehpur fort. He adored the game so much that he created such large Pachisi floors in Agra and in Allahabad. To play the game with his courtiers, the slaves would dress up in the four different colours for each house and stand on the marked squares as the game's pieces. Akbar's style of playing Pachisi was regal in all senses. Reimagining those slaves moving around the floor every time the cowrie dice was rolled played a small movie of our Kings sitting there and enjoying their royalty.

Royal Chambers of the Queens of Akbar

Moving west beyond the Pachisi, two complexes built in red stone stood facing each other. The guide pointed to them and announced that they belonged to the first two wives of Akbar. In the fort of Fatehpur Sikri, the Emperor had made royal chambers for his three wives, who also belonged to different religions. Known for his religious tolerance, Emperor Akbar did not just speak about his ideas but also followed them in his personal life. We entered the left side building. The guide explained it belonged to Turkish Sultana, a Muslim princess and Akbar's chief queen consort. The setup in front was only the skeletal structure of what used to be decorated once with priceless gems and fine textiles. What looked like a guest room today was lavishly adorned and furnished with posh decor once upon a time. The building across the Turkish Sultana was in the same state of renounced silence reminiscing in its former glorious years. It belonged to another queen of Akbar, who is lesser is known in history. Her chambers were similar to Turkish Sultana's but a little bigger. Due to the growing fragility of the construction, many entrances were now closed for the public. Taking a roundabout of the queens' chambers, we stood in front of Panch Mahal.

Panch Mahal

A five-tiered structure built in Rajput style architecture, Panch Mahal was a recreational complex for the queens. The Mahal offers some of the breathtaking views of the kingdom to enjoy over the setting sun and the cool breeze that helped cool down under the scorching heat of Fatehpur Sikri. It was planned to be based in the harem quarters and was used for entertainment purposes. However, there are a few pieces of evidence of other utilizations of Panch Mahal. Nevertheless, the building's appearance in itself is so amusing that it was difficult to not go and explore it. For the last decade or so, the growth in tourism and rising footfalls on the top floors has caused damage to the foundations of Panch Mahal. As a result, visitors can only climb up to the third or fourth floor to preserve the heritage for the future. However, the complete structure deserves great admiration. To be honest, it is a simplistic design with almost no architectural ornaments or decorations. But that is the reason why it takes away the prize of being the top favourite construction in the fort.

Anup Talao and Khwabgah

Next to the two royal chambers is a square pond, Anoop Talao and the royal residence of Emperor Akbar, Khwabgah. Khwabgah, which means house of dreams, justified its title with its grandeur. The infamous Anoop Talao can also be seen in the movie Jodhaa Akbar. It is a square-shaped pond with another square sitting area built right in the middle with a narrow bridge built on all four sides for access. Behind the Talao is Akbar's royal residence, Khwabgah. The king's residence consisted of several pillars indicating many chambers must have existed in the complex. The abode was so large that it was impossible to see the end of the room as everything fell into darkness after three rows. It indicated the heavy vigilance practised by who knows how many guards stood there during his time for safety. Unfortunately, the time was running out, and we had to skip our trip to explore the residence.

Fatehpur Sikri fort accommodated everything that dealt with the Akbar and his administration. From his chief advisors to the treasury to Hakim's chambers to Caravanserai, and many other requirements, big or small, housed here inside the fort. The fort could be called a mini kingdom. Time constraints didn't allow us to explore these magnificent complexes on this visit. However, I plan to return here one day and explore it elaborately. If you plan to visit Fatehpur anytime soon, make sure to keep 4-5 hours to enjoy your tour here.

Wait! The story doesn’t end here. Continue reading with the legendary Rajput princess, Jodhabai's palace in Fatehpur Sikri!

Go to the third segment of the story, Buland Darwaaza and the tomb of Salim Chisti