The world had turned in by the time I arrived at my hotel in Pahalgam. My taxi driver dropped me on the other side that connected with a wooden bridge. As I walked over the planks, the gurgling of river Lidder roared in the darkness beneath. The river Lidder's momentum was undoubtedly assertive. Triumphantly tugging at my luggage till the reception, I completed the check-in formalities. After being informed about the absent bellboy, my courageous will lifted my luggage and me to my room on the third floor (as luck would have it, there was no lift in the hotel). I sloshed my frozen soul on the warm heater bed and fell asleep under the burbling spell of the river flowing beside the hotel.

Settled at 96 kilometres from Srinagar, Pahalgam is known for its grand scenic views and picturesque landscapes. But my trip to Pahalgam started from Gulmarg, adding another 44 kilometres. The day I chose to commute to Pahalgam was also when many other hundreds decided to travel on the same road. Traffic was inevitable, adding another few hours of delay to reach Pahalgam, and if that wasn't enough, a garnish of drizzling rainfall made it complete. Henceforth, the usual three and half hours journey converted into a lavish six hours, no complaints, except for the idle traffic. The ravenous views of saffron farms, voluptuous willow tree canopies, and a brief tour of the cricket bat factory made up for all the delays in the world that day. The route became more scenic when river Lidder joined in on the journey, flowing right beside the road and filling up the silence with its melodious kalkal. This kind of introduction hinted at the upcoming adventures laid out by Pahalgam.

Aru Valley - Overa Aru Biosphere Reserve

Pahalgam's exploration began with Aru Valley. The most acclaimed among scenic landscapes and gorgeous meadows, Aru Valley, is mobbed with tourists in all seasons. Falling under the Overa-Aru Biosphere Reserve, the valley is well protected to save many distinct species of animals, birds, and various kinds of flora from disappearing from this earth. I got down from the taxi and jumped into the official 60s style green-coloured Jeep. Situated about 12 kilometres from Pahalgam, it involved three kinds of transport - taxi, official jeep, and ponies, due to each transport's reach limitations. Finally, with much reluctance, we got on the pony as they were the only ones who could take us to the destined place. The route was much less bumpy than contemplated. Soon the valley revealed itself as our sure-footed ponies made their way to the top. The green meadows and coniferous forest decorated the mountains on one side, and the gorgeous ravine with azure Lidder flowing through it on the other. It was a view any traveller would cherish in their memories forever. I turned to the meadow sitting trapezium-like, narrowing at the farther end. One of the pony guides explained how small flowers of different colours cover up the whole field at the beginning of the fall, ultimately turning everything white in the winter. These spectacular views made it obvious why Aru held such a worthy title of housing some of the most charming vista points. On the way back, nothing was the same anymore, thanks to Aru. However, the valley tour wasn't over yet.

Betaab Valley

Previously known as Hagan or Hagoon, the valley coined its current name after the movie 'Betaab', starring Sunny Deol and Amrita Singh, was shot in this location. It also popularized the Betaab valley among the tourists and became one of the favourite spots to be visited in Kashmir. Located 15 kilometres from Pahalgam in the Anantnag district, it didn't take long to reach the valley. Paying the entry fee, I walked in to explore the infamous ravine. Amongst all the valleys seen so far, Betaab has been treated highly and with respect. Colourful fences, vibrant huts, and elegantly trimmed and touted gardens decorated the dale giving it a very cinematic look. Lidder river strolling across the luscious green gardens, decorated with two-three hut sized cottages. A small-fenced bridge installed to connect land cut by the river gave the gardens a hazy Japanese look. A local family was picnicking under the Even the climate was in our favour turning the winds pleasantly cold and soothing, making the time spent here more enjoyable than ever.

Not restricted to its looks, Betaab valley has seen the evolution of man over time. After excavation, archaeologists have found evidence dating back to the Neolithic age. The valley even lured the Mughals with its divine beauty, who preferred the views as much as we do today. The water here is said to be so pristine and clear that it requires no filtration or processing.

Baisaran Valley (Mini Switzerland)

Located just 5 kilometres from Pahalgam, Baisaran is infamously known as 'Mini Switzerland' because of its 'Swiss-like' landscapes. After exploring Aru Valley in the morning, an afternoon plan to explore Baisaran sounded perfect, considering its short travel time. There were two ways to reach the valley, ponies(of course!) and hiking for the fitter category. I was back on the backs of the ponies. The previous experience at Aru gave added some affirmation to ride one again. The statistics were wrong! The ride to Baisaran Valley was nowhere closer to Aru. Extremely steep valley on one side and one narrow road where two ponies could barely stand at leisure. Every time my pony would miss a step on a rock, my heart would jump up into my mouth. If that wasn't enough, the melting snow turned the ground muddy and slippery, sinking the hoofs deep into it. As a good rider, it becomes your responsibility to maintain your balance and help the ponies transport you to the location. But here, unfortunately, I was useless to my poor pony, who might have been rolled his eyes watching me pendulum right and left on his seat. It even started nudging the other pony, probably begging them to exchange their riders. After what seemed to be an eternity, we had made it to the Baisaran Valley in one piece. What a view it was! The valley held to its honoured name of Mini Switzerland.

Lawns of green meadows stretched far and beyond with dense coniferous forest outlining the valley preserved this well-hidden gem from the sight of usual tourism. Undoubtedly! Those who chose to come here needed the 'Khatron Ke Khiladi' verification. But it all seemed worth it looking at the views laid out in front of my eyes. I was reminiscing some of the beautiful 60s Hindi classics that could have shot here, 'Kashmir Ki Kali', 'Junglee', 'Phir Wohi Dil Laya Hoon', and many more. There was quite a crowd of tourists here, but the dale still managed to be peacefully calm and relaxing. Even a few shepherds brought their flock of sheep to enjoy the mouthwatering grass. Sitting down on the fields and enjoying the raw views of the valley seemed like a good idea. Soon it was time to head back to the hotel. On the way back, the sun was in its setting mode, and the rays sifted through the small crevices, throwing sleepy orange rays on us. Our ponies walked in silence as if enjoying the sunset along with us. The way back was equally daunting but surprisingly quick. A few sighed out of relief as soon as everyone got off their respective horses.

The Land of Valleys and its Hidden Secrets

Known for its pleasant atmosphere and incredible valleys, and exceptional views, Pahalgam also hides a few less famous spots. Like Baisaran valley, others await to be explored, like Sheshnag Lake, Tulian Lake, and more. Most of these sights are accessible through hikes or ponies. But they are certainly worth visiting. What Pahalgam offers through these valleys is its soul of simple beauty and extraordinary soul!