After driving for what felt like an eternity, the idea of returning to Kolhapur was concreting very quickly. With no internet to get directions and totally lost in translation with Kannada locals, my instincts told me to drive up to the location marked on the map. Every bit of determination and faith paid off when a small board boldly announced the name of the place, Kopeshwar Temple.

Kopeshwar temple sits right at the border of Maharashtra and Karnataka. So, be prepared to exit and re-enter the state if you end up on the longer route like I did. It is a quiet place surrounded by acres of scenic farms, and the temple's spiritual identity adds up a sense of serenity here.

A God whose temper knew no bounds - Lord Shiva

We all know the story about how Sati jumped into the fire after her father, Daksha Prajapati, humiliated her and her husband, Lord Shiva. When Lord Shiva found out, his anger was limitless and enough to destroy the world. This form of Shiva came to be known as Kopeshwar. Kope translates to anger in native Marathi, and Kopeshwar Mahadev translates to angry Lord Shiva.

On a historical note, Kopeshwar is said to be built during the Chola dynasty about 1000 years ago. Some believe Kopeshwar was inspired by the town's ancient name, Koppam. Well, legend or no legend, it has definitely left behind more than that for us to admire this place.

No Nandi to welcome the devotees

Missing statue of Nandi at the entrance of the temple.

An unusual thing here is the absence of Nandi, who is Shiva's vehicle and the first to welcome the devotees. It is because the legend says that Nandi also jumped into the fire with Sati.

An artist's canvas of rock

To have a whole-hearted experience of this place, I suggest you take a guided tour of the temple. The exterior walls act as an educational canvas for the younger generation, and the sculptors made sure to utilize this power to its potential extent. As you begin your clockwise pradakshina, you will come to learn about the sculptors' inspiration and resourcefulness of ideas while studying the artistic figurines of Gods, people, animals, and nature, displayed on the walls for the world to see. Amongst all, there is one such statue of a woman who is writing a love letter to her lover. It is carved in a narrative format, where the changes in her body language tell us about her progress in her letter. This expresses the sculptor's depth of understanding of human behaviour in earlier times.

Not just that, there are sturdy elephants carved out on the outline of the wall, as if the temple's foundation is laid out on their strong shoulders. Unfortunately, some seemed to have lost their trunk or the whole of a face with time.

Elephants carved at the bottom outline of the temple to projecting them as the sturdy foundation of the temple.

Offerings to the Gods in Swarg Mandap

One of the highlights of Kopeshwar is the Swarg Mandap. An open circular sun-roof gives you the feeling of being in the heavens, and so the name Swarg. The sculptors didn't stop at that. They planned the mandap so well that on a full moon night, the light falls through the roof and illuminates the premise, a moment worth living at least once in a lifetime.

What else can be said about Kopeshwar than literally going there and living the stories it has to tell through its display and the legend that brought it to its existence. All I can say is, the next time you plan your trip here, make sure you get your directions right and do carry enough space on your camera/phone for pictures because you are not going to stop clicking and making the most of your time here!